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Author Topic: Installing the Wire  (Read 19538 times)

toolbelt

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Installing the Wire
« on: April 14, 2010, 04:11:39 PM »
To kick this new forum off I believe we should revisit a lot of the topics we have hashed over on other forums, such as:

For new owners, when you install the wire make sure you create smooth corners instead of 90 degree type.

Come on guys/gals hop in here and let's get this forum hopping, the more postings the better.

toolbelt

RoyMercer

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2010, 07:52:14 PM »
Hi toolbelt,

Do you know if Oscar ever sold his LB3550?

toolbelt

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2010, 09:00:18 PM »
I haven't heard if he has or has not.  email him via the 'other forum' and while you're at it let him know about this one.

toolbelt

RobotLady

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2010, 10:36:08 PM »
Toolbelt, what a great way to start - a good installation is so important.  In addition to rounded corners, we also have the following important recommendations:

1) Make sure the wire is flat to the ground and pull the wire tight before pegging it.

2) Pegs may be placed up to 2.5 feet apart when grass is sparse, however, we have found that thick grass may require pegs to be placed as close as 18" apart, and 1 ft apart on occasion.

3) We do not recommend the use of hardware store wire.  Why?  Several reasons 1) usually they stock indoor wire 2) knowing the wire gauge is not enough to ensure electrical characteristics will be comparable to the in-box wire 3) there are many different types of wire, it is too easy to choose the wrong type if the store does not have the right type in stock 4) your transmitter warranty will be invalidated.  Using the wrong type of wire can cause transmitter failures.

4) Make sure you follow the recommended distances of the wire from solid objects, although it is possible to cheat for a closer cut in some cases.

RoyMercer

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2010, 11:34:16 PM »
Below is a post I did on another forum last year. Next is a reply from someone then me replying back. I later found that non-tinned copper wire will corrode with my soil type and the THHN will split. I replaced all of my wire with Paradise Robotics premium wire and all of my problems went away.  ALWAYS use Lawnbott wire or Paradise Robotics wire.

Zucchetti says not to use solid core antenna wire in order to prevent RF attenuation.  It is unclear if  Zucchetti's comment means any stranded copper wire will suffice or to use only the wire Zucchetti provides. I used 14 ga solid THHN. This is what bamabots advised to use.  If the attenuation Zucchetti is speaking of is based on stranded verses solid, the only thing I can think of is the difference in the skin effect. Audiophiles have argued this phenomenon for years (at audio frequencies). However I am no expert, but; my calculations tell me there is not much loss at 8 KHz. If someone is more knowledgeable in this field please chime in.

Skin effect is a physical phenomenon that relates to the limited penetration into a conductor of a high frequency signal according to its frequency. The less of the cable the current uses, the higher the resistance appears to be. This has specifically effect on cables that are thick and carry high frequency signals.


DC = Entire cable
1 kHz = 82.5 mils  
10 kHz = 26.1 mils     .66mm
100 kHz = 8.25 mils   .21mm
1 MHz = .261 mils       .60um
10 MHz = .0825 mils    .21um
100 MHz = .0261 mils
1 GHz = .00825 mils (8 micro-inches)

AWG    Circular Mil

14      4,107

15      3,257

16      2,583


I noticed Zucchetti's wire is tinned. Standard THHN solid or stranded is not. With certain types of soil the THHN copper may corrode at a higher rate.  

THHN has a teflon coated insulation. Zucchetti's wire appears to be standard vinyl coated. Maybe the teflon coating becomes a dielectric and changes the capacitance of the wire to ground? I will do some experimenting with this if I can find the time. I really don't have the time to replace the wire. What type of wire are other's using? Anyone used the provided wire but has signal problems?

Steve Amelung

I would concur with this.  At 8kHz (and the entire audio spectrum as far as the audiophiles are concerned) there is really no skin effect to worry about. 

While stranded is typically pulled in a pro audio install, it has more to do with the ease of pulling and the fact the connectors (Speakon is typical these days) are designed for stranded.  There are damping factor issues due to cable inductance to contend with in the audio frequency world, but those have nothing to do with stranded versus solid and apply only to speaker wire pairs below 200Hz, not to an inductive loop in the yard at 8kHz.
  Quite a mix here... Gauges of 16, 14, and 12, some solid and some stranded, some tinned and some not, some buried and some pinned above the ground.  The wire has evolved a lot since the original 3200 wiring back in 2005 (zone borders have moved, sections of yard added, etc.) with each change using a different wire type (sometimes because I had it on hand).  All conenctions are soldered.  It should be noted that the wire has worked perfectly with 2 robots, 3 motherboards, and 3 different transmitters.  This problem appeared with the 3500 upgrades, not with any changes to the wire.  I highly doubt all of our wires have gone bad at the same time only among those who have the upgrades (quite a coincidence, huh?).  Chasing wire issues is a dead end... they just need to make it work again like it used to.

You are correct and it looks like they have. However, there have been a LOT of problems with the 3500. My first unit was a RF mess. 2nd unit (and was a 2nd generation LB3500) worked well for the few months I had it in service. End of season came, then came this last mod. I only have 900 feet of wire, need a signal booster and have needed it with both machines. 150+ watts at 8 KHz inside a 900 foot perimeter is a lot of power.

I believe during the last mod the receivers where reprogrammed to have a higher selectivity. Then the disturbance filter was added to clean up the transmit RF. It all made sense to do this and it worked in Italy and here in the states at Kyodo. Why did it not work for us?  The only difference I can think of is the wire.

Have you received your new receiver yet? Mine is working well. Or I should say like it did before the mod. There will probably be a software update that takes care of the machine taking too many breaks and acting like a fool when it touches the border.

Steve Amelung









« Last Edit: April 15, 2010, 08:15:18 PM by RoyMercer »

RobotLady

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2010, 09:10:07 AM »
I had not heard of Skin Effect until you posted.  It seems very logical to me that this would happen and I can also see how stranded wire will reduce or probably eliminate skin effect.  Stranded wire is usually twisted within the wire insulation.  Each strand may have skin effect, but since the strands alternate their position between their proximity to the insulation and to other strands, the overall result is reduced resistance.  Although it is just wire, since we are dealing with a very long length, resistance becomes significant.  High wire resistance will cause a reduction in signal amplitude.  One customer of ours measured 11 ohms and he **did** need a signal booster.
« Last Edit: April 15, 2010, 10:03:49 PM by RobotLady »

RoyMercer

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #6 on: April 15, 2010, 08:28:42 PM »
I only have 3 ohms of DC resistance on my wire and I use a signal booster. I also use the filter. I have a null in the middle of my back yard, plus the filter attenuates the signal quite a bit. Below is a couple of post I did on another forum a while back. Although I think you have a much cleaner signal with the filter you can see below how much (expected though from this type of filter) attenuation there really is. By the way, it turns out the radio station was not my problem. The new receivers at that time and bad wire was the problem.


I decided to take a look at the RF tonight, with and without this disturbance filter.

On the output of the transmitter with the "signal booster" power supply connected I see approximately 27 volts peak @ 7.8153 kHz.

Without the Signal booster connected I see approximately 19 volts peak @ 7.8153 kHz.  

Using a low end digital oscilloscope I was unable to see any audio, if any, modulating the carrier. The wave form was similar to a square wave.

Next I added the "disturbance filter".  The output waveform now represents a triangle waveform. Unfortunately and as expected from a low passive integrator filter, the output was attenuated by as much as 9 volts peak. This was measured  utilizing the signal booster. With only 18 volts peak, I now have less amplitude with the filter utilizing the signal booster verses no filter and no signal booster power supply.  

The good news is that I can clearly tune in broadcast A.M. stations inside the house utilizing the filter.

The bad news is the null area in the middle of my yard is back. This was the reason for adding the signal booster power supply in the first place. Some folks that need the extra gain provided with the signal booster will be unable to utilize the disturbance filter. I also anticipate that some folks not utilizing the power booster will require it if they connect the filter. If Zucchetti is dishing these out for free there must be a need to clean up the RF. Or maybe they are providing it as a precautionary... I dunno.

Testing antenna wire disconnected from the transmitter, I have only 2.8 ohms of D.C. resistance. I see 10 mV peak of noise between 550 and 600 kHz.

Someone brought up an interesting point today. About 4 miles north of me there is a A.M broadcast tower operating on 810 kHz at 50,000 watts. At night time, the power is greatly reduced. Although I see no modulation on my wire, I tested it tonight. I will test again during the day time and after the rain quits this week I will test the machine at night time.

Steve Amelung

I am not sure what changes they made to the new transmitter, but I know the previous transmitters used a H8/300H “Tiny” Family Series Hitachi Single-Chip Microcomputer. With that said, I suspect they are using pulse-width modulation (hence the square wave).  It makes since they chose this rout in order to better control the output.  However, after looking at the signal during the light (real quick before I had to leave for work) I notice something else is going on. I suspect I am seeing the algebraic sum of what ever it is they are transmitting. Keeping in mind the RF carrier frequency never changes. I whish I had a good spectrum analyzer right about now....

As large as their filter is, one would think it is at least a 2nd order. But looking at my test results it almost has to be a first order. I  agree, having a higher q would give a  sharper filter response and they have 8 kHz of room before the first harmonic. (AM broadcast doesn't even start until after 500 kHz) You could end up with more output; but, like you said equals more expense. However I am sure they did not anticipate the problems they are having when they made these design choices.  The large size leads me to believe this is more than a simple first order low pass. Maybe they are also doing some filtering to the DC. Hmmm. I don't see any break away warranty labels...

You are absolutely correct on the power booster. Newark electronics sells a couple of them that will work for 1/3rd of the price. The tip is positive but the connector was odd sized.

My test where taken on the new transmitter. They are sending me the previous style transmitter. I will take a look at the RF on this after I receive it.


Steve Amelung
« Last Edit: April 15, 2010, 08:34:21 PM by RoyMercer »

RoyMercer

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #7 on: April 15, 2010, 08:30:33 PM »
Hey toolbelt, good idea. I don't think he is still on there because his photo is blank but I will send him an email and let you know what I find out.

RobotLady

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #8 on: April 15, 2010, 10:13:52 PM »
One more point about the wire type - solid wire is very brittle.  One small nick or bend and you can get a break in the wire.  Stranded is flexible so it is much better.  We've seen wire breaks on customer installations that used solid wire.  The wire broke from stress two years after it was installed.  The stress was caused by normal ground movement from rain and multiple freeze/thaw cycles.

Also, Steve you are right that the signal is PWM.  We noticed that, too, when we looked at it a few years ago.

toolbelt

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #9 on: April 16, 2010, 11:50:04 AM »
Another thing to keep in mind, should you purchase a 3200 model instead of the 3500 series, is the distant you have to have the wire from the edge.  Leave enough room for the 3500 to use the same wire without having to move it out an inch or two.  The 3500 series require the wire to away from the edge a couple inches more than the 3200.

toolbelt

Skaagen

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #10 on: May 04, 2010, 11:07:33 PM »
Hey guys, I just bought a LB3210 from a local dealer here in VA.  I'm thinking now that I should have bought from Paradise, since I'm having a hard time figuring how to install my perimeter wire.  I'm thinking I could have used the free installation support.  Here's my problem:  My yard slopes down to a drainage ditch.  The slope is only about 19-22 degrees, but both sides of the drainage ditch meet at the bottom to form a "V".  I was doing a test run of the bot to see what it would do once it got to the bottom of the slope and the front end hit the other side of the slope and it got stuck.  I have some spiked wheel on order to get better traction, so maybe that will help it to back up.  The grass was also a little damp, which caused the wheels to spin-out.  Would you guys (LawnBott experts) know where the best place to put the wire on the slope that would prevent the LB3210 from getting stuck, but still mow as much of the slope as possible?  I was hoping not to install my wire like 5 different times just to figure out the best place to deal with the slope.

Thanks in advance for your advice!
Skaagen

toolbelt

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #11 on: May 05, 2010, 08:32:21 AM »
If you haven't installed any wire I would do the following:

Connect one end of the wire to the charger.  Run the line directly to the slope, peg it along the end of the slope where you think there will be a problem, then run the line back to the charger.  Hopefully the wire still on the spool will not mess with the signal.  Next, hand carry the bot to the slope and go from there.  A few test runs should give you an idea as to how the wire should be placed along the slope.  Easier to move a small section than redoing the whole yard.  Have fun. 

jzawacki

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #12 on: May 05, 2010, 08:51:45 AM »
I could be wrong, but my understanding of the amount of degrees it can mow is limited by the transition.  Meaning, the bott's front and back will hit the ground and cause the bot to get stuck on the transition.  So, if you are cutting on a slope, one of your concerns will be the transitions.  If it's to much, it will scalp your yard at the top and get stuck at the bottom.

As for slipping and sliding around.. Did you buy the spike wheel kit?  If not, that will be a must.  And if I remember correct, when something like this came up before, another concern will be the bott sliding past the wire and giving an out of bounds error.  I believe someone mentioned a mat with holes that you can put down to give the bott extra grip and allow the grass to still grow through it.

Here is one I could actually find: Boundary on downward slope

RobotLady

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #13 on: May 05, 2010, 09:02:43 AM »
Chicken wire is great for adding traction where needed as well. 

Skaagen, if you do not mind paying for our installation advice, give us a call (847) 960-8520.  We have lots of experience you could benefit from.  We have unlimited support options as well as "pay as you go".  I think you will find our rates reasonable.

Skaagen

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Re: Installing the Wire
« Reply #14 on: May 05, 2010, 12:11:21 PM »
toolbelt, jzawacki, and RobotLady:  Thank you very much for your advice!  I think I am going to try toolbelt's suggestion and conduct some wire positioning experiments.  If I can't figure it out, I'm going to buy some installation support from RobotLady.  jzawacki, thank you for that older post, I guess I missed it yesterday.  My new LawnBott is so awesome, and I haven't even installed the wire yet.  I did a "no perimeter" test run through 7"-high grass, and it sheared it perfectly.

 

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